Canucks vs Green Devils

Last night I got out and played a Spearkrieg Commander game at House Lancaster to introduce DW to the rules. He'd played Black Powder before so knew roughly the command system and we were playing a basic scenario without recce or artillery support.

View from the German lines

3rd Canadian Infantry Brigade were attacking with a Regiment of Churchill IVs in support. In defence were the 2nd Battalion of 1st Fallschirmjager Regiment (with promise of StuG support).

Canadians begin to advance

DW advanced slowly initially as he got to grasps with the rules. As indirect fire was called in and my PaK 40 screen was deployed, casualties were mounting on both sides.

PaK 40 deploys

With no artillery it was a bit of a tough ask to weedle out the dug in Germans until the Canadians whittled them away and managed to get into combat.

Canucks charge in

The 2 lead Canadian Battalions were approaching breaking whilst the German reinforcements were yet to be seen.

Hole smashed through German lines

With the removal of the forces from the hill and the eventual capture of the village sector in the centre (thank you snake eyes in combat), the Canadians pushed on and I was getting nervous. A pair of StuGs arrived but had little impact.

Canadians reach the last village.

Finally the Canadians hit morale - one routed back whilst the other held but it was enough to stop them for now.

A good game with good ebb and flow - I'm going to try and get some more games going. I also really enjoyed the feel of the club - saw some games of Warhammer 40k (and variants) with actual maneuvering going on which was  a major reason I didn't get into it at school. I have a definite reason to get my Bolt Action force finished for a potential tournament. (Anyone got a 750 point concept army for Fallschirmjagers which is historically appropriate?).

Terrain Tiles (Part 3)

Continuing working on the terrain tile project, and today I have an update. I found a pack of 8 sheets of 2'x6' hardboard (which works out as 24 2' squares) for £52 to good starting point!

I have also designed the basic designs for 24 tiles as a combination of plain, streams, hills etc

Stream/River Tiles

I didn't want to make any waterways too wide so that they can be used for multiple scales. A such these are 1" wide.

Hills

These are for significant hills, obviously smaller hills can be added across any of the other tiles.

Coast tiles

Can be used as a three like this and have a wide front or use 2 and go deeper (on a 6 tile table).

Trench Tiles

These won't be as extensive as my previous trench tiles as they need to drop down to the same level.

All the tiles!

At the same time i've been rethinking how to make the tiles. Rather than base then polystyrene, I'm thinking of using a base sheet, topped by 1" blocks at corners (stepped back by the depth if the sheets) and another sheet on top (as well as strips round edge to fill gaps).  

Just add the top

For areas with depressions (streams, trenches), I would do the same but the top would be made of two board strips at either side and the gap would be made of polystyrene.

Stream design

Probably a delay on this going ahead as DW is getting married tomorrow! WOOT!!!

On another note I have got some mdf laser cut buildings for Frostgrave - so pics soon and I will hopefully get some more games in.

Terrain Tiles Part 2 (Trenches)

So the initial discussion about terrain tiles was with regards to trenches (as I'd previously made a few blocks). This then evolved into how you'd be able to make modular terrain with these blocks and normal terrain blocks without making those blocks excessively thick for what they need to be.

As such I have come up with a couple of options I think could work:

OPTION A "DOWN, UP, UP"

So this design is fine if the first tile is a standard tile then further trenches behind (or 2 regular tiles then this trench tile). But in larger table setups might not fit in as well.

Normal Trench Tile

So this is what a "normal" trench tile looks like - obviously this varies for "2nd line" tiles as well as corners - I can also include mortar pits or bunkers.

In this first concept, the side facing the enemy would be at standard tile depth of 1" and the other side would be at 2" (trench depth). This means there is only one area that needs real care with regards to matching edges and that is int he slope up to the trenches.

Option A

As long as the start of the slope starts at the same point (at the edges) this shouldn't be an issue. The rear area behind the trenches being extra thick makes it easier with regards to adding extra features.

OPTION B "DOWN, UP, DOWN"

This option is better in terms of material price per tile as well as flexibility in larger games (if say there is "normal" terrain to a rear area.

Option B Overview

Again using the "standard" trench tile set-up you can see the slopes leading up to all of the trenches. This gives more of a feeling that when constructed, the materials removed were used to build up the walls (more realistic?).

Option B

So what do you think? I've seen and completed designs which are all at the increased depth but a lot of this is about how it interacts with the other bases in a modular setup so I'm split.

Terrain Tiles

So having discussed a super secret project with my friend DW, we have discussed the potential to make a large quantity of terrain tiles (once its announced I will be letting you all know exactly what is going on!). With a back and forth about what he wants etc I have come up with following pros and cons etc.

Table Setup: 6' x 4' with modular terrain (standard table size)

2 feet square vs 1 feet square:

• 1' is obviously more flexible in terms of arranging your terrain in different layouts. 
• 2' gives you more flexibility as to where your terrain leaves the table. You always want it to be the same place on each tile so they match up and gives you the flexibility of deployment. In a 1' tile you should probably put the leave points in the middle especially if cutting down as the strength of the tile will be compromised. Whilst on a 2' tile you could put it at 6", 8" or 12" (the middle) away from the edge). Having said that you would still need to leave at midpoints to achieve maximum flexibility.
• Cost; 1 2' tile is a lot cheaper than 4 1' tiles.
• Edges; when building if you have a full woodshop you can make edge guards out of wood - obviously this is cheaper when making 2' tiles as less edges. I don't have the capacity to do this so I just put the polystyrene up to the edge and papier mache. The only problem is that this creates some shrinkage away from the bases and therefore slight gaps when putting tiles together. This is an increased problem when you have more, smaller tiles.
• Storage; may be easier to store 1' tiles, there again 2' tiles have less edges so less chance of damage. This really depends on what your storage is like.
• Weight;  obviously the 2' tile is heavier (and bulkier) so more difficult to move around the space. However this means they should be less susceptible to movement on table.

Looking at all this I'd advise 2 feet squares. I would also only put terrain to cross board edges when there is a physical depression (trench tiles, rivers, gorges etc).

The only other feature that would cross board edges would be large hills - either with set crossing points or as a terrace (cliff) - I think this could lead to some really fun designs with waterfalls.

Significant hills should probably be terraced (With smoother edges) - this makes it a lot easier to join edges across boards as well as reducing issues with figures falling over and for rules which use heights is a lot more quantifiable.

Other terrain we can build to sit on top of this could be other linear features such as roads, fences etc or area templates (woods).

With regards to depth of the tile it would be the depth of the wood base and then about 1" of polystyrene.

Sch'yyrk Revan'tyl

So tonight I am hopefully playing D&D as a player rather than as a DM, which is awesome as I am really struggling to get regular times free to do things at the moment. Anyhoo, I thought I'd post my character background here. Will thicken this up as campaign progresses.

Sch’yyrk Revan’tyl

Height	5’11”
Race	Dark Elf (Drow)
Class	Ranger (Hunter)
Deity	Eilistraee
Alignment	(True) Neutral

If it weren’t the chaos caused by Drizzt Do-urden’s return to Menzoberranzan, it is unlikely than Sch’yrk would be alive. Born as the third son of a minor house (Revan'tyl is his name by adoption), he was due to be sacrificed (as is the practice) to the god Lolth when he was smuggled away by a – to this day – unknown ally. His only memento of that time is a steel forge pendant and large scars along his arms.

Sch’yrk spent his infancy in Sshannoth, learning the ways of a Drow weapon master, before his conscience (and astonishment at the beauty of the world above) led him to flee to the surface. The actions of Drizzt may have had no small part in this way of thinking.

Since then he has wandered from town to town – taking occasional beatings for being a Drow. In response he has taken great lengths to hide his past, wearing a long grey/green mottled cloak, leather armour and a leather thong across his eyes with a single thin vision slit to protect his eyes from what is still not a natural environment on the surface. This also covers a bleached tattoo strip he has across his nose. At his hips hang twin short swords and at his back is a longbow (further evidence of his attempt to move away from his Drow heritage).

Sch’yyrk is conflicted, his upbringings as a child (and the history of his race) oppose what he has witnessed and his core beliefs. As such he is often sullen and withdrawn, seeming harsh. However, this is interspersed with seemingly random acts of kindness and occasional heroic acts. His discovery of the goddess Eilistraee (who was perceived as abhorrent within the teachings of his youth) has turned his thinking somewhat (previously he avoided other Drow at all costs) to see the Drow as manipulated by the Dark Seldarine – could others be taught the ways she can offer.

Sch’yyrk is tall for a Drow at 5’11” but has the usual dark skin of his people. His eyes are a deep purple whilst his ears are not as elongate as you would expect from an elf of any kind.

February Update

Don't worry! I'm still painting, still playing boardgames (may have been distracted by Minecraft) but still doing bits (undercoated my Paras for Falklands War for example).

Still thinking away about Game of Thrones "Stag Rampant" game but to an extent put on hold until save up for an army and DW decides where his thoughts are.

Also been listening/watching a lot of Acquisitions Incorporated which if you haven't done then give it a go (all on youtube). However this has made me want to play D&D again (don't know anyone else really whose into it but trying to organise a game presently). So armed with my 5e starter box (which has a much more involved campaign associated with it) a handful of miniatures and my dungeon tiles I'm ready to run it. Just need 3-5 players and we can go!

Slightly Silly Army List

So I've been playing around with research and ideas for "Stag Rampant!" and as a bit of a variety I thought of making a "Crannogmen" army list. Crannogmen come from "the Neck" - a narrow strip of land which divides the North from the rest of Westeros. It is Howland Reed or accompanies Ned Stark at the end of the War of the Usurper to King's landing and is potentially the only one alive who knows who Jon Snow truly is.

For anyone who has played Lion or Dragon Rampant you will be aware of the unit types - if not there is a short description.

It is quoted that Greywater Watch - the castle of the Reed family has no men at arms or Maesters - which immediately removes 2 potential units from the list. Fighting in mostly boggy, broken terrain, cavalry would be limited and so the following list is suggested.

1 x Expert Foot Serjeant* (Formed Infantry with Hand Weapons)
1 x Fierce Foot (Berserker types)
1 x Foot Yeomen with Javelins (Lesser Quality Formed Infantry with spears and javelins)
1 x Archers
3 x Bidowers (Skirmisher Types)

Yes that is 3 units of Bidowers. In an open battlefield this force would be destroyed but in a campaign this force could be extremely useful as a harassing force or to hold and ambush in tricky terrain in a multiple retinue battle.

Any thoughts?

A Song of Fire and Ice - Concept Review

Ok, so so far I have looked at three of the houses involved in Robert's Rebellion (War of the Usurper). However I'm going to pause at this point until I get a rough idea of what rules we're looking at. So far I've had a sneaky look at conceptual idea for converting:

• Warmaster Ancients
• Saga
• Lion Rampant

I have also had a quick think over what sort of armies to use (using concepts discussed on other forums).

Westerosi - French Medieval Army (More Cavalry for Tyrrell, higher tech levels for Lannister)

Stark - Scot Army

Wildlings - Celts

Greyjoy - Vikings

Martell - Hispanic/Almoravid

Dothraki - Mongol

Obviously this will be dependent on the rule set so DW lets make a decision.

A Song of Fire and Ice - Concept Part 3 (Targaryens)

Targaryen Emblem

Part 3 is a bit trickier. Having not appeared as yet on the TV series, we've not really seen the Targaryen Forces. For now I will take the ideas used by "Mount and Blade" mods and base it on this. If this doesn't work for DW then I'll try again. Suggestions for this one are requested please.

Targaryen Sergeant - "Mount and Blade"

All of the mods seem to use kite shields. Again a rough orbat would be more preferable to work out exactly what is wanted but for now I'm going to suggest the European Mid Medieval Spearmen for the infantry.

Spearmen

For light cavalry could use European Late Medieval Hobilars which match the infantry.

Hobilars

I have been asked to make the knights a bit heavier and "fancier". So I was thinking maybe some Roman Clibinarii. This is obviously personal taste so take it as you will.

Heavy Cavalry

I think the heavy cavalry may be taste dependent so I'll leave that out there. Finally, the army would potentially need Dragons (period dependent) which Pendraken do do some of.

Flame Breathing Dragon

A Song of Fire and Ice - Concept Part 2 (Lannisters)

Next on the list is the Lannisters - or at least the forces directly under Lannister banners (bannermen may well be armed/armoured differently).

The uniform has been noted as being Samurai like so I've tried to focus on that and to be honest seems right. Possibly missing visor pieces but at this scale does that matter for the standard troops? Especially if say they were based quite closely together?

Lannister Armour

Katana's are obviously too long but would take little effort to shorten to a suitable length.

Sword Armed Infantry

I also think that the shoulder guards would need reducing but the cheek plates give a similar look to the visor when opened so this would be ok. Again these are available armed with sword, spear or longbow as well as mounted versions. so would probably cover all main troops involved.

An alternative (or possibly a mix of the two would be to use some of the European Late Medieval Range.

Dismounted Knights

These guys could just have a cut put down the middle of the visor and could therefore look like visor closed options.

The only character that you may need a different figure for (yet again comes when its War of Five Kings) would be Tyrion (I'll look at Kingsguard in another post for Jaime).

Pendraken do have a dwarf range but have no pictures, the hill dwarves range is illustrated and the closest I see would be possibly the sword armed Dwarf. Obviously the sword would need modding to be an axe and the beard carving off.

A Song of Fire and Ice - Concept Part 1 (Starks)

Been discussing this with my friend DW and wanted people's opinion (as well as somewhere to collect thoughts). Have discussed how we could play a Game of Thrones wargame (probably in the Robert's Rebellion period) in 10mm with forces that look right.

So to start off with using Pendraken miniatures I'm going to take a look at the Stark armies. Unlike the other forces, although they are spread over a large area, they all appear to come under the same uniform/banner.

Stark Soldier

Basically, the colour for the Starks will be murky brown, grey, (maybe gunmetal) with rounded helmets and round shields. For the foot soldiers, the Viking range from Pendraken seems ideal.

Norse Bondi

For the cavalry, its a similar uniform and could be done by using the Irish Cavalry from the European Late Mediaeval Range.

Irish Cavalry

All in all fairly simple - the only other thing that may need modelling is a Ned Stark model with Ice. You could use one of the models I've shown with some Green Stuff or a Fantasy Barbarian Chieftain.

Sean Bean

On a side note, if we were to do the War of Five Kings then we'd need a Direwolf for Robb - how about a Giant Warwolf.

Grey Wind?

So I think this is a good start - anyone with any other ideas - or indeed rule sets to use please comment.