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Thursday, 29 December 2016

Fallschirmjager Squad 1

So I've mostly finished painting a squad of my Fallschirmjagers for Bolt Action (minus a touch of luftwaffe blue for helmets and hats as well as metallic grey for weapons. I still need to apply decals to panzerfausts as well as texturing bases but I thought I'd post them anyhoo.

I think they've come out quite well - having said that I do feel the detail on the jacket fronts could be better. I also would have preferred a few more options for the panzerfausts (say a firing pose?).

Now I've done these - I'm going to work out a 500 point list and paint up the necessaries including the platoon commander.

The squad is made up of an NCO wielding an MP40, a second man armed with an MP40, a MG42 (with a second man as loader), 3 Riflemen and 3 Riflemen with Panzerfausts.

For my records (and if you want to know);

European Skin
Colours of War
Mechanised Standard Grey
Base Uniform
Worn Canvas
Colours of War
2nd Uniform Colour
Battlefield Brown
Colours of War
3rd Uniform Colour
G. I. Green
Colours of War
Uniform Lines
Army Green
Colours of War
Wool Brown
Colours of War
Dryad Bark
Dark Leather
Colours of War
Abaddon Black
Sicily Yellow
Colours of War
Uniform Wash
Athonian Camoshade
Skin/Trouser Wash
Agrax Earthshade

Thursday, 22 December 2016

2016 in Review

So here we are, approaching the tale end of one of the more interesting years in recent history. Mass celebrity deaths at start if year, storm recovery, politicians playing to the rule to win (gamey), unlikely sporting events (including me playing American Football) and my youngest (and last) going through her first year.
Anyhoo, with all this going on, my actual gaming time has been sporadic, with most games I've played being noted on here! Because of this, my painting tends to have been more a case of what I fancy doing at the time rather than completing projects and because of that I have multiple projects on the go at once.

Having said that; I am moving forward with getting my bolt action Fallschirmjager force complete asap (getting 500 points done first so I can play some kind of game in January). I also am slowly getting Vietnam forces done and I have got my storyline sorted for when I get this going (currently based off a 4 man campaign).

Other forces are on more of a slow burn - my SYW Prussians have no opponents yet, my 10mm WW2 (and Falkland War) forces aren't really a priority and I have enough Frostgrave models for the moment (although I intend to get what I have finished so I can tick that off).

I also hope to buy a lot of plastic boxes to hold my forces (and bigger ones for boardgames) so I can be more organised and therefore more efficient with my time.

I'm also going to try and be more interactive and attempt to go for polls and things as well as hosting more games (a lot easier now the boy can be put up to bed earlier). Alongside this I really need to build up my fitness for the new season (my core effectively doesn't exist at the moment).

Thanks for reading and I hope to share more with you in the new year.

Thursday, 15 December 2016

Rogue 1 (No Spoilers)

I am not going to spoil Rogue 1 (because most people haven't seen it) and this won't be a proper review because I haven't had chance to process it all or talk it out but I do have this to say - IT WAS AWESOME!

#####Before continuing I have not written any deliberate spoilers and my opinion is based upon being born after the original films but before the prequel films. I have also watched both animated series so some comments only apply there.#####

  • First of all, it is not a long film (2h12m) but it packs a lot in without feeling rushed. Scenes flow - there are no unnecessary scenes and wide lens shots are long enough to appreciate without dragging on.
  • The graphics are great, makes the most of modern technology without making it seem "wrong" next to A New Hope. Some of the things they do in this film are a true nod to the original films to truly tie it in. (NOTE: Watch "A New Hope" shortly before or after "Rogue 1". Alternatively just have watched "A New Hope" a lot .
  • This film ties in the whole Star Wars Universe (with an exception to Force Awakens) together with references to the original trilogy, prequel trilogy (thankfully minimal) as well as the "Clone Wars" and "Rebels" animated series.
  • The 3D is good, not quite as mindblowing as Dr Strange, but not eyebreaking like "Days of Future Past".
  • The storyline is what it should be. The characters have flaws and life isn't a perfect happy story.
  • The Rebels are not perfectly equipped at all, its motley with all sorts of bits and pieces thrown together - exactly how it should be.
In a couple of weeks I might revisit this (more likely to when released to Blu-Ray) and actually review it properly, but for now - WATCH IT.

On a side note, I got 6 FJagers base camouflage colour on - going for a beige base followed by brown and green before a green wash, whilst the trousers shall be desert yellow.

Monday, 12 December 2016

28mm Mass Painting

As I've previously stated, I have large quantities of 28mm models to be painted and I need to stay motivated and do them. I am currently spending an hour or so a night putting together my Fallschirmjager and these are nearly done (just the Pak40 and Mortar to put together) - this is working well and its quite nice doing it whilst the missus plays Sims.

As such I will shortly have my Frostgrave Barbarians, Fallschirmjager and my Vietnam forces already to go  - its enough to be daunted - so I need timetables. I want to get my FJs to be undercoated by Christmas so I can paint a couple of squads before Rookie Day for Morecambe Bay Storm after which time may be more limited and hopefully get some games in.

With planning in process I therefore need to calculate which paints I need to paint them up for Monte Cassino.
Image from Warlord Games
I've used various paints in the past including FoW own ranges as well as GW. What paints do people suggest and if possible colour codes?

Tuesday, 6 December 2016

Warlord Games StuG III

28mm has taken over my painting table. I have 10m and 6mm armies I want to paint but take a lot of effort to get everything out (paints, models, light, correct colour guide for my 7YW Prussians) and at the moment my paint times tend to be an hour here or an hour there at the end of the day.

On the other hand with a lot of 28mm figures, once they are put together and sprayed, I can just work on a figure in front of the tv and get it done in a night (minus basing). As such at the moment on the go I have:


  • Frostgrave Barbarians
  • Vietnam (US, NVA and VC)
  • Fallschirmjager Starter Army
  • Fallschirmjager
  • Canadians
  • British Paras
  • Russian Infantry
  • Prussian Seven Years War
Last night I sat down and glued together the StuG III from the Fallschirmjager boxset. I've decided not to attach the side skirts as I want to use this for mid-war and I'm thinking of painting the force up as part of 1st Fallschirmjager in Italy. I also didn't want too many pieces which could be broken so didn't attach the top machine gun and shut the secondary hatch up.

The model went together fairly easily (although I don't personally like the two part tracks. The details seem decent enough for a wargaming model especially the grenade launchers.

I need to decide on the paint scheme now, obviously dunkelgelb underneath but then . . . ?

I think I'm going to get the whole force put together before I paint it, whilst I keep up painting habit on my other bits. Having said that if I get a decent spell to myself I might try and get 500 points done so I can play a game in January (fingers crossed). Any volunteers?

On the Football side of life - we find out in less than a week if we're accepted into the league. All fingers crossed. I've been unable to do much fitness myself with family commitments and surgery but give me a week and I'll be back on my bike and attempting to bulk up.

Friday, 25 November 2016

US Lt. for Vietnam

Wanted to paint - couldn't decide what. 6mm 7YW was too much effort and I wanted to paint something and finish it. 

So I decided to paint one of my Vietnam models and get that project properly started. So here he is - my first finished US Soldier for Vietnam (I will use as an LT).

I promise I will retake the pictures once I've done a few.
This is an Assault Group Mini and I'm planning on using these for a combination of Tour of Darkness or Charlie Don't Surf. I like these models - easy to paint thanks to crisp lines which makes washes really work. Since then I've done 4 more and intend to crack on with a few more. (Will investigate orbats so I know what I need for Charlie Don't Surf).

Friday, 11 November 2016

Frostgrave - Standard Deployment (2)

Got some laser cut mdf building ruins in a bundle and we gave our Frostgrave warband another run out. We decided to just do another throw down game (although I'm determined to play some alternative scenarios considering I know have them all printed and put in a folder). Again the game was close although repeated use of telekinesis, teleport and leap really mixed it up.
Set Up
I really need to get some better pictures taken - also need a grey sheet or something. Anyhow this game really was a mad dash to run for the treasure, spells were going off left right and centre, although I've agreed to let JT rechoose her spells as shes currently got no offensive spells and far too many out of game spells (which we both forgot about). Before this I had purchased a tracker (as I had one painted), and having closer to parity on numbers really helped.

All in all I think we're both still enjoying it although I think we might give the Dark Alchemy campaign a go or maybe the new Ambronnax Campaign from the Forgotten Pacts book.
Roughing it out for the last few treasures
After all of that we both got 3 treasures, although Jade was a lot luckier with KO results having no ongoing effects compared to me losing my archer as well as a badly wounded Apprentice.

Blue Sapphire (Update)

Wizard Romanoff Apprentice Zito KO (Recovered)Elgiva the Archer KO (Recovered)Gerard the Crossbowman - KO (Recovered)Guy the Infantryman - KO (Recovered)Etheldreda the ThiefFaramond the ThugAnsger the ThugSedemay the Treasure Hunter KO (Recovered)Osgyth the War Hound - KO (Recovered)

Cast 6 Spells and Carried off 3 Treasure = 210 XP (460 XP)200 GC2 Grimoires - Steal Health, Elemental ShieldMagical Weapon/Armour - Magical Shield (+1)Base: InnL4 (increased 2 levels) (increase ?and?) 
Purchased 1 Archer (-50GC) = Current Gold 360GC

Gronn Flamme

Wizard Heimr
Apprentice Baldr KO (Badly Wounded)
Aylwin the Archer KO (DEAD)
Walburga the Infantryman
Wulfhild the Infantryman
Goldwin the Infantryman
Bathsheba the Man-At-ArmsKO (Recovered)
Diggory the Thug
Aslak the Tracker

Cast 8 Spells, Carried off 3 Treasure, 1 Kill by Wizard) = 270 XP (590 XP)
450 GC
3 Scrolls - (Plague of Insects, Imp, Spell Eater)
Magical Item - Ring of Protection (+1)
L5 (increased 2 levels) (increase ?and?)
Purchased 1 Archer (-50GC) + Recovered Apprentice (-100GC) = Current Gold 400GC

On a side note it also turns out that model ruins are great to get the eldest interested. Maybe not but can but hope :p

Thursday, 3 November 2016

Terrain Tiles (Part 3)

Continuing working on the terrain tile project, and today I have an update. I found a pack of 8 sheets of 2'x6' hardboard (which works out as 24 2' squares) for £52 to good starting point!

I have also designed the basic designs for 24 tiles as a combination of plain, streams, hills etc
Stream/River Tiles
I didn't want to make any waterways too wide so that they can be used for multiple scales. A such these are 1" wide.
These are for significant hills, obviously smaller hills can be added across any of the other tiles.
Coast tiles
Can be used as a three like this and have a wide front or use 2 and go deeper (on a 6 tile table).
Trench Tiles
These won't be as extensive as my previous trench tiles as they need to drop down to the same level.
All the tiles!
At the same time i've been rethinking how to make the tiles. Rather than base then polystyrene, I'm thinking of using a base sheet, topped by 1" blocks at corners (stepped back by the depth if the sheets) and another sheet on top (as well as strips round edge to fill gaps).  
Just add the top
For areas with depressions (streams, trenches), I would do the same but the top would be made of two board strips at either side and the gap would be made of polystyrene.
Stream design
Probably a delay on this going ahead as DW is getting married tomorrow! WOOT!!!
On another note I have got some mdf laser cut buildings for Frostgrave - so pics soon and I will hopefully get some more games in.

Wednesday, 26 October 2016

Boardgames and How to Win Them

So last night, I played a couple of games with JT and her sister; 2 rounds of Ticket to Ride and a round of Lords of Waterdeep. And by luck and/or skill (mostly luck I think) I won all 3 - also NO DICE WERE INVOLVED!

As such I just wanted to share my tactics as they apply to these games (although many of the themes can apply to any game or scenario).

Ticket to Ride

  1. Don't be afraid to get rid of a ticket. At the start of Ticket to Ride, you get 3 destination tickets. First of all work out how these routes could work together and if they don't get rid of one.
  2. Have a clear plan. How are you going to complete (and connect your routes)? This gives you an idea of what colours you need to collect as well as what routes are vital to you (and which ones have multiple options).
  3. Flexibility. Don't be afraid to change your route. You have an original plan but if your heading into traffic then go elsewhere if you can.
  4. Keep them guessing. Start at one end of a route and go to the other end. This ties up one end of your route, stops you having to take detours if a gap you've left is filled, and hopefully makes your route more likely to be continuous (for longest route).
  5. Zero points is sometimes the best place to be! Well for the early game anyway, the longer you can afford to just be collecting resources without playing the better - this ties into all the previous points and if you collect the right cards means you can then claim route after route and complete your tickets before anyway has opportunity to react.
Lords of Waterdeep

Lords of Waterdeep should be played in a similar way except for the following:
  1. Play quests. Unlike ticket to ride, other players can interact with your resources so just stockpiling isn't as much of an option. Also quests have instant rewards (resources) as well as ongoing effects.
  2. Only play your quest types. Unless there is a significant positive effect (ongoing effects etc) then don't play quests which aren't of your type. Our game was so close until we started counting up our "Lord" points. At this point I got 40 points and flew away!
So there's my short hints and tips section on these two games - any other advice from people would be appreciated.

Monday, 17 October 2016

Frostgrave - Standard Deployment

So me and the missus played a throw down game of Frostgrave; half the minis are unpainted, the other half need the bases doing, some scenery is built but part painted and we found didn't have nearly enough - so might just buy a few bits to tie me over (just not enough time to do everything I want to!).

Anyway my Gronn Flamme boys took on JT's lads in a free for all - 6 treasure in the buildings and see what happens.

I can report (as I did after the game I played at the club) that the mindset has to be different to a traditional wargame mind (especially one like mine which tends to play larger scale games). Its a raid - get what you want and get out. This mindset was there for Jade and she managed to quickly get the 3 on her side of the table. Meanwhile my apprentice (with half of my smaller warband) took up position on a small hill with a great field of fire - unfortunately not really covering any tokens and only really good if enemy were coming to attack me. Eventually the removal of thugs to carry off her treasure whittled her strength down and I was able to cause some casualties with my better quality soldiers including my wizard laying the smackdown on her wizard.

I promise next time to have some pictures of the game but here are the results (for housekeeping if nothing else). Can I say although I was lucky in game with some of my combat rolls, JT rolled incredibly for recovery.

Blue Sapphire (Update)

Wizard Romanoff - KO (Recovered)
Apprentice Zito
Elgiva the Archer
Gerard the Crossbowman - KO (Recovered)
Guy the Infantryman - KO (Recovered)
Etheldreda the Thief
Faramond the Thug
Ansger the Thug
Sedemay the Treasure Hunter
Osgyth the War Hound - KO (Recovered)

Cast 4 Spells and Carried off 4 Treasure = 250 XP
210 GC
Magic Weapon/Armour - Mail Armour
Magical Item - Horn of Destruction
3 Scrolls - (Leap, Furious Quill, Illusionary Soldier)
L2 (increase Fight and Health)

Gronn Flamme

Wizard Heimr
Apprentice Baldr
Aylwin the Archer
Walburga the Infantryman
Wulfhild the Infantryman
Goldwin the Infantryman
Bathsheba the Man-At-Arms
Diggory the Thug

Cast 3 Spells, Carried off 2 Treasure, 1 Kill by Wizard, Wizard killed Wizard = 320 XP
180 GC
3 Potions - (Teleportation, Invisibility x2)
Grimoire - (Enchant Armour)
L3 (increase Fight and Health, Learn Enchant Armour from Grimoire)

Needs for next game; Choose Base of Operations, Reinforcements (Paint), Get more scenery, Make Spell Cards, Make Quick Reference Sheets (I've got some somewhere)

Wednesday, 12 October 2016

Fact Or Fiction

So I have a new blog which is a bit more serious, where I write little essays with a quick summary of whether someone is using historical analogies factually or whether it is all fiction. Hope you enjoy:

Monday, 10 October 2016

Terrain Tiles Part 2 (Trenches)

So the initial discussion about terrain tiles was with regards to trenches (as I'd previously made a few blocks). This then evolved into how you'd be able to make modular terrain with these blocks and normal terrain blocks without making those blocks excessively thick for what they need to be.

As such I have come up with a couple of options I think could work:


So this design is fine if the first tile is a standard tile then further trenches behind (or 2 regular tiles then this trench tile). But in larger table setups might not fit in as well.
Normal Trench Tile
So this is what a "normal" trench tile looks like - obviously this varies for "2nd line" tiles as well as corners - I can also include mortar pits or bunkers.
In this first concept, the side facing the enemy would be at standard tile depth of 1" and the other side would be at 2" (trench depth). This means there is only one area that needs real care with regards to matching edges and that is int he slope up to the trenches.
Option A
As long as the start of the slope starts at the same point (at the edges) this shouldn't be an issue. The rear area behind the trenches being extra thick makes it easier with regards to adding extra features.


This option is better in terms of material price per tile as well as flexibility in larger games (if say there is "normal" terrain to a rear area.
Option B Overview
Again using the "standard" trench tile set-up you can see the slopes leading up to all of the trenches. This gives more of a feeling that when constructed, the materials removed were used to build up the walls (more realistic?).
Option B
So what do you think? I've seen and completed designs which are all at the increased depth but a lot of this is about how it interacts with the other bases in a modular setup so I'm split.

Friday, 7 October 2016

Terrain Tiles

So having discussed a super secret project with my friend DW, we have discussed the potential to make a large quantity of terrain tiles (once its announced I will be letting you all know exactly what is going on!). With a back and forth about what he wants etc I have come up with following pros and cons etc.

Table Setup: 6' x 4' with modular terrain (standard table size)

2 feet square vs 1 feet square:
  • 1' is obviously more flexible in terms of arranging your terrain in different layouts. 
  • 2' gives you more flexibility as to where your terrain leaves the table. You always want it to be the same place on each tile so they match up and gives you the flexibility of deployment. In a 1' tile you should probably put the leave points in the middle especially if cutting down as the strength of the tile will be compromised. Whilst on a 2' tile you could put it at 6", 8" or 12" (the middle) away from the edge). Having said that you would still need to leave at midpoints to achieve maximum flexibility.
  • Cost; 1 2' tile is a lot cheaper than 4 1' tiles.
  • Edges; when building if you have a full woodshop you can make edge guards out of wood - obviously this is cheaper when making 2' tiles as less edges. I don't have the capacity to do this so I just put the polystyrene up to the edge and papier mache. The only problem is that this creates some shrinkage away from the bases and therefore slight gaps when putting tiles together. This is an increased problem when you have more, smaller tiles.
  • Storage; may be easier to store 1' tiles, there again 2' tiles have less edges so less chance of damage. This really depends on what your storage is like.
  • Weight;  obviously the 2' tile is heavier (and bulkier) so more difficult to move around the space. However this means they should be less susceptible to movement on table.
Looking at all this I'd advise 2 feet squares. I would also only put terrain to cross board edges when there is a physical depression (trench tiles, rivers, gorges etc).
The only other feature that would cross board edges would be large hills - either with set crossing points or as a terrace (cliff) - I think this could lead to some really fun designs with waterfalls.

Significant hills should probably be terraced (With smoother edges) - this makes it a lot easier to join edges across boards as well as reducing issues with figures falling over and for rules which use heights is a lot more quantifiable.

Other terrain we can build to sit on top of this could be other linear features such as roads, fences etc or area templates (woods).

With regards to depth of the tile it would be the depth of the wood base and then about 1" of polystyrene.

Tuesday, 27 September 2016

Frostgrave Scenery Update

Months ago when I ordered my bases for my Seven Years War and WW2 things I also ordered some larger bases to make scenery for 28mm (ruins), mostly for Frostgrave. I'm experimenting with these at moment but I've already decided that I definitely want to make a few more. This is where I'm up to so far:
This one will have a reasonably significant bit of flooring in the far taller corner.
The black painted one in the background is the one shown previously but painted with its undercoat.
Part Painted Thug for scale
The walls are stuck with lots and lots of PVA - I'm not bothered about drips as I'm going to texture the bases anyway.
This one will have to be well painted to cover the bright colours - but then it isn't as thick anyway so probably needs it anyway for some rigidity. This one is going to have 2 partial floors (just enough to stand on) and some remnants of stairs (using lollipop sticks).

This final one is at a slightly later stage with filler added to texture and represent rubble. It also has a partial floor (with a small window to shoot from).

I want to make a few more unique buildings: religious building, fountains, pillars,

I also have played a couple of games of X-Wing with the missus. Was enjoyed; quick start game was stupidly quick and the second with full rules (and boosting up to 32 points) was really long with Luke combined with R2-D2 being seemingly impossible to shoot down. Going to buy another ship each: probably a Y-Wing and a TIE Interceptor to add to the fun - unless others have better suggestions?

Monday, 19 September 2016

Sch'yyrk Revan'tyl

So tonight I am hopefully playing D&D as a player rather than as a DM, which is awesome as I am really struggling to get regular times free to do things at the moment. Anyhoo, I thought I'd post my character background here. Will thicken this up as campaign progresses.

Sch’yyrk Revan’tyl

Dark Elf (Drow)
Ranger (Hunter)
(True) Neutral

If it weren’t the chaos caused by Drizzt Do-urden’s return to Menzoberranzan, it is unlikely than Sch’yrk would be alive. Born as the third son of a minor house (Revan'tyl is his name by adoption), he was due to be sacrificed (as is the practice) to the god Lolth when he was smuggled away by a – to this day – unknown ally. His only memento of that time is a steel forge pendant and large scars along his arms.

Sch’yrk spent his infancy in Sshannoth, learning the ways of a Drow weapon master, before his conscience (and astonishment at the beauty of the world above) led him to flee to the surface. The actions of Drizzt may have had no small part in this way of thinking.

Since then he has wandered from town to town – taking occasional beatings for being a Drow. In response he has taken great lengths to hide his past, wearing a long grey/green mottled cloak, leather armour and a leather thong across his eyes with a single thin vision slit to protect his eyes from what is still not a natural environment on the surface. This also covers a bleached tattoo strip he has across his nose. At his hips hang twin short swords and at his back is a longbow (further evidence of his attempt to move away from his Drow heritage).

Sch’yyrk is conflicted, his upbringings as a child (and the history of his race) oppose what he has witnessed and his core beliefs. As such he is often sullen and withdrawn, seeming harsh. However, this is interspersed with seemingly random acts of kindness and occasional heroic acts. His discovery of the goddess Eilistraee (who was perceived as abhorrent within the teachings of his youth) has turned his thinking somewhat (previously he avoided other Drow at all costs) to see the Drow as manipulated by the Dark Seldarine – could others be taught the ways she can offer.

Sch’yyrk is tall for a Drow at 5’11” but has the usual dark skin of his people. His eyes are a deep purple whilst his ears are not as elongate as you would expect from an elf of any kind.

Friday, 16 September 2016


I don't have many chances to go down to Lancaster Wargames Club much at the moment so when I do go I want to have a game organised. I also like when a game has repercussions (so games with "growth" like Frostgrave, or where casualties are carried forward) so therefore I'm looking at campaigns. I want to keep it simple and so we can potentially just play a game and it appear to stand alone (so anyone can join in).

So I have 3 plans:

  1. Carry on D&D campaign if can get organised with babysitters etc.
  2. Build up Frostgrave terrain and play some games with my wonderful (and patient) girlfriend (and anyone else who fancies it).
  3. Wargames campaign for WW2 using Flames of War - "Firestorm" campaign system but fighting battles using Spearkrieg Rules.
Fort those who don't know - Flames of War is a points based system (which Spearkrieg is not - focusing on historical scenarios) which works well for this style of campaign. It is therefore very suitable for this style of set battle - win or lose style environment. Spearkrieg battles are often decided before we even start playing - we almost use the system just to confirm hypotheses rather than playing competitively. Any larger battles with cumulative casualties and recovery have usually been quite linear in nature (a single advance axis such as Prokhorovka) or can be played sector by sector as assaults go in one at a time (Stalingrad). As such it may be best to fight out a campaign such as Market Garden where the advance is linear. Otherwise working out a campaign for an assault upon a specific target.

The biggest problem is balancing the forces. A British Rifle Brigade does not equate to a German Panzergrenadier Regiment. One option is to use Blitzkrieg Commander points for historical formations and see how they equate. Alternatively there is a Spearhead points system - though this would have to be modified to take into account different command values.

At the moment my thinking is split - I like the idea of multiple battles taking place over a turn and reinforcements being assigned to sectors (which may be in the wrong place). But I think it would be easier to carry out a linear assault and just have the "campaign" effect being the recording of casualties - eg Set scenarios with results of battles affecting the following ones.

I'll get back to you.